Spending a full work week (fuzzy math = 5 days) in the islands after a five day diving cruise was definitely the right combination. After visiting only two of the many islands in 5 days, I noticed that each of the islands have unique characteristics of different tempos, social life, restaurants, taxi/traveling accommodations, travelers, drug interests, etc.
First we stopped in koh phangan, home of the moon parties--full moon and half moon parties corresponding to the lunar dates. Since we missed the beach craziness of the full moon festival (on the sunrise [east] beach of this one little peninsula on the island) due to the scuba trip, attending the jungle craziness of the half moon festival was a must. Arriving the day before the half moon, the area where we decided to stay had a little vibe like Vang Vieng, Laos, with many bars playing groundhog day-esque episodes of friends and family guy. First thing noticed about the area was that it was populated heavily by Israeli tourists, the shops and medical clinics having Hebrew writing and stars of David--I didn't know that Israelis colonized Thailand just yet. Having the choice of two beaches, sunrise and sunset beaches 5 minutes from one another was a nice luxury (although sunrise beach was a lot more accommodating with space of beach). The beach was lined with resorts and bars, most of which were closed during the day. Also, the beach was desolate throughout the good part of the day, which was a little concerning especially because the beach was a gorgeous 4 km white sand beach with mountainous views on either end.
The highlight of the beach was at one of the mountain-ends, with an appropriately named establishment, mountain bar. Not only did it offer amazing views of the ghost beach, it also offered "special" shakes. (In southeast Asia, "special" is a secret code answer to "wanna get high?") It was recommended from friends on the diving trip a week prior, and it didn't disappoint, offering an amazingly "special" sunset.
After spending a few "special" hours, it was time to see if the beach had a nightlife. Surprisingly bars started opening up and little carts with different locals selling buckets of liquor-filled cocktails lined the beach. The desolate beach had also turned into a small jump off, with hordes of party goers listening to beats from the Jersey shore (not the show but the real thing, and probably 1-2 Summers behind) all the while mesmerized by fire shows--fire sticks, fire spitting, fire limbo... Definitely a nice scene prepping for the half moon the next day.
The beach the next day seemed to have gotten yelled at by governor Christie to get "off the freaking beach" (YouTube it if you don't know) or something because more people decided to show up to partake in the T of gtl, finally putting the lovely beach to good use.
Food on the was decent compared to the rest of the trip in which we had already eaten among traditional Thai food already. Party night round two was held at this amazing rave venue in the middle of the jungle a taxi ride away. The beats were strong as were the fire shows. Surrounded by black light, people painted in fluorescent colors marched in throughout the night, recreating a visual for the lyrics to "Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds". Speaking of lsd, it was offered and as quickly denied. A bucket and a couple beers later, it was time to let the lyric-shunned beats roll. Being slightly more sober than everyone else there, it was entertaining and a must see for those drug happy ravers, and/or dance happy drunks. And off to the next island...
Koh Tao is a diver's haven. Divers from all over the world come to Koh Tao, as it is a top dive site definitely (although going to the similans the week prior spoiled the sites...dive master Anna was right--word of advice: go to Koh Tao prior to the similans). This island seemed to be inhabited by French people who all seemed to know how to ride a scooter and drive on the left side of the road. This characteristic gave the taxi drivers to have minimums on their fares (not to all: learn to drive a scooter and on the left of the road prior to going to Koh Tao). Deciding to stay on the a purposely more isolated beach than the party scene was a nice change. Cheap beach front room was a great perk too.
Koh Tao's beach, unlike Koh phangan's, was more of a stay on the beach to get a tan because the water is really shallow and feels like walking on mud kind of beach. Regardless, where we stayed, the beach was amazing. The atmosphere in Koh Tao was stoner-esque, totally opposite from the pill popping life of phangan. Another recommended spot from fellow travelers met earlier in Chiang Mai, was "high bar". Situated on top of a mountain offering amazing sunsets and what it's name implies, joints to get high. Though the joints were of a hybrid nature (tobacco mixed with weed), they were still a nice commodity, although the walk up to the bar was not fun (learn to ride a scooter!)--the walk down definitely a lot of fun (YouTube weekend of Bernie's dance for insight of the walk). Perfectly situated at the base of the mountain was "rasta bar", which was unfortunately discovered a little too late into the stay in Koh Tao. It offered a great menu of cocktails, great music of the reggae type, jenga and connect four, and a great bar tender--all the makings of a great stoner bar and amazing vibe too.
Unlike chalok bay (Stoner part of the island where we stayed--see above), sairee beach in Koh Tao was more of the usual bar studded, techno beat and live music area with some chill beachside bars as well, like Fizz--only in Thailand will fizz be a chill bar with beanbag lounge chairs on the beach and not a hangout for the homosexual crowd. Diving in Koh Tao is a must and so is having fresh barbequed seafood. Fish this fresh and amazing would be hundreds of dollars, but instead is hundreds of baht, a steal and therefore a must. From red snapper to whole tuna to lobster sized shrimp, they have great seafood sold everywhere--just pass by and see what the restaurants are offering in their iced fresh fish filled troughs.
The islands did not disappoint, not at all. From beats in phangan to the
chiller vibes of the xx kind (YouTube "islands"by the xx--how appropriate I know) in Koh Tao, they are a must. Unfortunately being American, time is limited for vacations, so it's on to Cambodia's "happy" place for the last leg before coming home.
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